How to Sew Binding to a Quilt

If you need help piecing the binding, see my Blog Post about that. Here's a simple way to cut Long Bias Strips for Bias Binding.

After you have pieced your binding you are going to sew it to your quilt. What I am going to show here I learned from Libby Lehman.

Plan where you want to start and stop. Think about starting about 1/3 of the way from the top on the left hand side rather than at the bottom. When judges look for the start and stop spot on your binding they usually look at the bottom of the quilt.


I'm working with a mini quilt and would recommend making a small sample like this in various stages. That way you have a visual reminder of each step when you are ready to bind a project. After a while you won't refer to that sample as often. But in the beginning having that step by step sample will really help.

Measure 10" from the end of the binding strip. Pin it to the quilt at your starting place. You want to leave a 12" opening so keep that in mind when you choose where to place it. Make sure you have 12" between where this seam starts and where you will finish after sewing all the way around your quilt.

Leave a 10" Tail and Pin Binding to Quilt

I like to check placement of my binding. I wrap it around my quilt, leaving about an inch or so extra at each corner to allow for mitering. You want to make sure that you don't have a mitered seam in one of the corners. If it looks like that is going to happen, I adjust my starting place. When you are satisfied with the placement of the binding, make a mark indicating your stopping point. This is 12" from the starting point.

Mark 12" from Starting Point. This Is the Stopping Point

Now it is time to start sewing the binding to the quilt.Take a few stitches and then backstitch. Continue sewing until you are 1/4" from the corner. Some 1/4" presser feet have a mark that indicates 1/4" from the needle. I use the Prep Tool or a small ruler to mark that spot on my binding.

If using the Prep Tool, line the raised edge of the tool up with the edge of the quilt. The distance between that edge on the tool and the straight part of the tool is 1/4". Use a pencil to mark along the straight side. This will be your stopping point at the corner.

Line Edge of Prep Tool up with the Edge of the Quilt

If using a regular ruler, place the 1/4" line of the ruler up with the edge of the quilt. Mark along the ruler. This will be your stopping point at the corner.

Line Ruler up at 1/4" Line and Mark Stopping Point

Continue stitching until you get to the line. If your machine has a needle down setting, you want to use it when you get to the line. If you don't have that feature, when you get to the line manually put your needle down. Pivot the quilt so that you are aiming for the corner of the quilt (this is a 45 degree angle). In the photo below, I lifted up the binding a little bit so you can see the corner of my quilt and where I'm aiming my needle. Do not sew it that way. Just pivot the quilt. Find the corner and sew to the corner and off the quilt.

Line up Presser Foot So You're Sewing Toward the Corner of the Quilt

This is what it should look like.

Corner with Binding Sewn on a 45 Degree Angle

Bring binding strip up and fold it on that stitching line. The strip will be at a 45 degree angle.

The Binding Is Folded on a 45 Degree Angle

Now bring the binding strip down toward you. Line the resulting fold up with the top edge of the quilt. It should look like this.

Fold Binding toward You

Start at the very top and sew.

Follow these same steps for the remaining corners. Stop at the marked line 12" from the starting point and backstitch. Be sure you have at least 10" of binding left to finish it.

This is what the corners will look like when you turn the binding to the back.

If you need help finishing up the end of your binding, see my Blog Post about The Binding Tool. You'll have another perfect mitered seam and the binding will lie flat against your quilt.

If you have any questions, feel free to contact me.

Happy Quilting,

Carol

How To Piece Binding

I have been demonstrating The Binding Tool for a few months. As I show people my little mini quilt sample to illustrate this product, I have discovered that there are a lot of people who struggle with piecing and sewing the binding to their quilt. As long as I was doing a Binding Tool Tutorial, I decided to do this one on How to Piece Binding and another one on How to Sew It to a Quilt.

I'm working with a mini quilt and would recommend making a small sample like this in various stages. That way you have a visual reminder of each step when you are ready to bind a project. After a while you won't refer to that sample as often. But in the beginning having that step by step sample will really help.

Mini Quilt Sample

Now comes the math part. Don't worry. It isn't tricky math. Measure your quilt. You are measuring the perimeter of the quilt or the total of all of the sides.

Measure Your Quilt on Each Side

My sample measures 19" on this side. It is a square so I'm going to multiply 19" (length of my quilt)  x 4 (number of sides) = 76". If it were a rectangle I would measure the long and short sides and add those numbers together. Then multiply that by 2 because your quilt has 4 sides. If it is an odd shape, measure each side. You can also just measure each side and add all of the numbers together. Do whatever is easiest for you. If it is a circle you'll need to find the circumference and that is more math than I want to get into here.

In my sample case I know that my quilt measures 76". I have to allow extra for piecing the strips together, the mitered corners, and the finished seam at the end. I add about 18 - 20 inches to that measurement. In this case that would be 96". I know that seems like a lot, but I can always trim off the excess. It is much harder to add more at the very end if you run short. If you have extra, it is a very versatile 2 1/2" strip for another project.

Most of the time you are going to need to piece the binding. So next we need to figure out how many strips of fabric you will need to cut. I know, that means a little more math. But again it is easy math. Using my example, I need 96" of binding. I always assume my fabric is 40" wide. That allows for cutting off selvages, shrinking if you pre-wash, and just industry inconsistencies in width. If I get more than that it is an added bonus. Again, it is always easier to trim away extra fabric than it is to add more later. So here is the math for my sample: 

96" (length my binding needs to be) / (divided by) 40" (width of my fabric) = 2.4 (number of strips I need)

I'm going to say that I need 3 strips. I cut my binding strips 2 1/2". Most patterns have yardage requirements for binding. But if you're working with scraps or want to use a different fabric, here's the last math equation you'll need to do to find out how much fabric you'll need: 

3 (number of strips needed) x 2.5 (width of strips) = 7.5" (of 40" wide fabric)

I prefer a mitered seam rather than a straight seam. In my opinion, your eye will go to a straight line but will not notice the angled seam. I think it is a much cleaner, nicer finished look. There are several ways to get that 45 degree angle. Here are three different techniques that I have used.

Technique #1 - Ruler on the 45 Degree Angle - Place strip on the mat wrong side facing up. Line up the 45 degree angle line on the ruler with the bottom corner of the binding strip. Draw a line from the top of the binding strip to the bottom corner.

Place Ruler on 45 Degree Angle Line along Bottom of Binding Strip

It should look like this.

Binding Strip with 45 Degree Angle Drawn

Technique #2 - Line up with Another Binding Strip - In this case you will use two of the binding strips to find the 45 degree angle. Place one binding strip horizontally on the mat. Place the strip you want to mark on wrong side facing up at the end of the horizontal strip but facing vertically. Match the strips up along the top edge and slightly to the left of the end of the bottom strip as shown below.

Place Stip to Mark on Perpendicular to Another Strip

Line up a ruler in the top left hand corner of the vertical strip toward the bottom right hand corner of the horizontal strip.

Line Ruler up with Top Corner of Vertical Strip and Bottom Corner of Horizontal Strip

Draw a line from the the top left hand to the bottom right hand corner of the vertical strip.

Draw a Line from the Top to Bottom Corner of the Vertical Strip

Technique #3 - QuiltCut2 Method - Place binding strip wrong side facing up  lengthwise on the mat. Place the Cutting Guide on the Side Rail. Change the angle to 45 degrees. Line the Cutting Guide up with the bottom right hand corner of the strip.

Line QuiltCut2 up on the 45 Degree Angle

Draw a line along the Cutting Guide. It will look like the picture on Technique #1.

Whichever technique you choose, mark all of your binding strips on the 45 degree angle. Now it is time to sew.

Line up binding strips similar to Technique #2. Place one strip right side facing up horizontally on the mat. Find the end of a second strip that has the marked line. Place it on top of the horizontal strip right sides together on the left hand side. Match the top and left side of the vertical strip with the horizontal strip. 

Line up Binding Strips along the Left Side with the Marked Line Facing Up

Double check placement to make sure that if you were to sew on the line when you open up the strip it will line up with the horizontal strip. When you're sure it is correct, pin and check the remaining strips. Stitch on the drawn line on each strip. Double check your seam one more time. When you open up the strips you should have one continuous line of fabric.

Trim excess fabric on each strip down to a 1/4" seam allowance. Press seams open.

Trim Seams down to 1/4"

Next, press the strip in half wrong sides together along the entire length so the strip is 1 1/4" wide.

Binding Folded in Half Lengthwise

Now you are ready to sew it to your quilt. If you need help with that, see my post on How to Sew Binding to a Quilt. If you want to have a perfect finished seam at the end, see the post on The Binding Tool. I also have a post that shows a simple way to cut Bias Binding. You're going to love it!

Happy Quilting,
Carol

Aquatic Park in Paradise, CA

Our last show was in Paradise, CA. As usual we got to the venue early for set up. We couldn't get into the building for a couple hours so we went to the park behind the school. It was a beautiful tree filled park, but it was so hot we couldn't really enjoy it.

On Sunday morning, we got there about an hour before the show opened. I decided that since I had some free time, I'd go down to the park for a few minutes. There was a fire about 30 miles away and the area where we were had a great deal of smoke. So I braved the smoky air and took a walk. Some days you just need a little down time and that was one of those days. I'm so glad that I did that.

The park is called Aquatic Park. There  is a large fishing pond with a spray of water in the center of the park.

There is something about the sound of a fountain or waterfall that has a very calming effect on me. I walked around that pond three or four times. As I was walking I discovered new things every time around. This interesting bird, I think it might be some kind of duck, caught my eye. He stayed in that same spot the whole time I was there.

Another nice feature of the park is that all along the path around the pond are Memory Benches. They have plaques on them with names of loved ones. What a wonderful tribute to someone special and for those of us who didn't know the person to know how much they are loved and remembered.

Areas for picnics and barbecues are located throughout the park. There's a rock water feature off to the side. The water from this trickles in a little stream into the main pond.

The park was designed by Northstar Engineering in Chico, CA for the Paradise Recreation and Park District in June of 1991.

I'm so glad I took a few minutes of "Me" time to explore this gorgeous space. What a wonderful way to get centered before a long, busy day.

Peacefully Yours,

Carol

Santa Trio Part 2

I finished stitching the first block for my variation of Santa Portrait Trio on the way to the show in Paradise, CA. I have the next one in the hoop and about 1/3 of the way stitched. I had a lot of time in the car after the show. Here's my completed block.

I transfer my designs onto fabric using Sulky's Sticky Fabri-Solvy.

This is a paper backed dissolvable stabilizer that can be fed through a printer. I just put it in my paper tray oriented so that the design is going to print onto the stabilizer. I have a 3-in-one printer so I put the pattern on the glass. Be sure to use the "Draft" setting on your printer. Tell it to make a copy. You can also scan a design and print it or just print from a stored design on your computer. The Fabri-Solvy feeds through the paper tray and comes out with the design printed right on there.

Peel the stabilizer away from the paper. It is sticky on the back so all you need to do is finger press it onto your fabric. Put it in a hoop and start stitching.

Here is my next Santa Block ready to hoop and stitch.

You can start stitching in no time. There is no tracing, no light box, no holding your pattern up to a window. Super fast and super easy.

When you're all done stitching, the stabilizer rinses out with warm water. You can either fill the sink with water and agitate it a little bit or just run it under the faucet and gently rub it. The stabilizer dissolves and all you're left with is the stitching.

Of course you can use this product the way you would use any other dissolveable stabilizer. I have used it for machine embroidery as well as thread painting.

Happy Stitching,

Carol

Variation on Santa Portrait Trio

When I work on a quilt, I very rarely make it like the picture on the pattern. I like to give things my own spin.   I feel like I'm comfortable enough in my stitching now to do the same thing with an embroidery design. We are doing a show in Phoenix this fall that has a holiday theme. So I've been working on stockings and ornaments. Now I'm working on my version of Santa Portrait Trio. I'm still doing it in red because that is definitely a great Santa color. However instead of making it as one long panel suitable for framing as shown on the pattern, I decided to make three individual blocks. Here's what the pattern looks like.

Once I get all of my blocks stitched out, then I'll figure out how I want to set them. I'm planning to turn it into a wallhanging rather than a picture to frame. It is a way to take one thing. Think outside the box a little bit to turn it into something a little different. Here's my first block in progress.

Check back for progress reports. I started this the block at the International Quilt Festival in Long Beach last weekend. There wasn't a lot of down time to work on it. However, I will have time next week in our travels to Paradise, CA.

Binding Tool Instructions

We recently started carrying this fantastic tool for finishing the ends of your binding. The instructions are on the tool. If you remember to always have the Binding Tool face up and to use the marking line and point of the tool to trim away the excess, you will have perfect binding every time.

I have found that sometimes it is easier to understand something with step by step written instructions and illustrations. If you would like to watch a video that shows how to use it here is a link to that http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ex2PajesRvU too.

 Here is a mini quilt sample.

Quilt after It Has Been Quilted

As mentioned above the instructions are on the Binding Tool. Make sure when you are using it that the instructions are face up so you can read them easily.

Binding Tool Right Side Facing Up

Leave a 12" opening from where you start and finish your binding.

Sew Binding Leaving a 12" Opening

Make the tails at least 10" long on each end. The opening must be 12" but the tails can be longer. I start my seam with the tail 10". After I've stitched it down I don't worry too much about the end tail as long as it is at least 10" long.

Binding Tails Are at Least 10" Long on Each End

The short straight side of the Binding Tool always lines up with the end of the binding seam.

Align Short Straight Edge of Tool up with the end of Binding Seam

Line it up on the right side of your quilt. Bring the binding tail on top of the tool and mark with a pencil using the "Mark Here" line on the tool. If your line isn't perfectly straight don't worry. This is just a reference point.

Mark on Line on Right Hand Side of Quilt

Rotate the tool 180 degrees and do the same thing on the left side of the binding.

Mark on Line of Left Hand Side of Quilt

There are a few different variations of the Binding Tool. Some don't have any reference letters. Others have an L and an R. The current tool has the letters A and B. Whatever yours looks like, the process is exactly the same.

Open the right side of your binding strip. Make sure that the tool is face up so you can read the directions clearly. Line up the Mark Here line with the line you drew on the binding. (If your tool has the R & L you are lining up the R. If it has an A & B you're lining up the B with the line you drew.)

Line up the Line on the Binding Tool with the Drawn Line on the Binding

Trim away the ends of the fabric along the angled part and short little point at the end of the tool. It will look like this.

Right Binding Trimmed on a 45 Degree Angle 

Open the left side of your binding strip. Rotate the Binding Tool 180 degrees. This time line up the point of the tool (the L if you have that or the A if you have that) with the line you drew. It is very important that the tool is right side up and that you line it up at the point, NOT at the Mark Line like you did on the right side. 

Line up the Point of the Binding Tool on the Drawn Line on the Binding

Trim away the excess binding at the point and along the angled side. It should look like this.

Left Side of Binding Trimmed on a 45 Degree Angle

Now put the angled ends of the binding right sides together. Make sure that you don't twist the binding strip as you do this.

Binding Strips Right Sides Together

Sew a 1/4" seam. Press open.

Press Open

Re-fold the binding in half. The binding is exactly the size of your quilt. Use a 1/4" seam allowance to stitch it  down to your quilt.

Perfectly Flat Binding with a Nice Flat Mitered Seam

Perfect binding every time! All of the calculations are in the Binding Tool. It makes finishing  the binding a breeze.

Note: If your binding is too long, you probably lined up with the line on the tool on both sides. Remember to line the right side of your quilt up with the line on the tool and the left side up with the point on the tool.

If you have any questions, feel free to contact me. I'll be happy to help you.

Happy Quilting!
Carol

International Quilt Festival Long Beach

We worked in the Bird Brain Designs booth at this show. It was quite different working for someone else for a change. I will say I kind of enjoyed just working for a change. Don't get me wrong. I love what I do but there is so much responsibility when it is your own booth. I could go home at night and not have to worry about the day's paperwork and preparing for the following day.

It was fun to see our regular customers. Some of them were a little confused since we weren't in our "normal" home. But it was good for them to see the association with the Bird Brain ladies and it was nice for their customers to put a face to us since Robin and Tina are only doing a few shows a year. We coined ourselves the "Baby Birds" since we are the mini version of them on the road.

Here's a picture of the four of us taking a minute to pose for a picture during a slow period on Sunday morning.

After many years of taking a break from hand embroidery, I am back to doing that. I always have a stitching project with me. Stay tuned for pictures of what I'm working on now. In the meantime, here are some Bird Brain Designs projects you might be interested in.