How to Sew Binding to a Quilt

If you need help piecing the binding, see my Blog Post about that. Here's a simple way to cut Long Bias Strips for Bias Binding.

After you have pieced your binding you are going to sew it to your quilt. What I am going to show here I learned from Libby Lehman.

Plan where you want to start and stop. Think about starting about 1/3 of the way from the top on the left hand side rather than at the bottom. When judges look for the start and stop spot on your binding they usually look at the bottom of the quilt.


I'm working with a mini quilt and would recommend making a small sample like this in various stages. That way you have a visual reminder of each step when you are ready to bind a project. After a while you won't refer to that sample as often. But in the beginning having that step by step sample will really help.

Measure 10" from the end of the binding strip. Pin it to the quilt at your starting place. You want to leave a 12" opening so keep that in mind when you choose where to place it. Make sure you have 12" between where this seam starts and where you will finish after sewing all the way around your quilt.

Leave a 10" Tail and Pin Binding to Quilt

I like to check placement of my binding. I wrap it around my quilt, leaving about an inch or so extra at each corner to allow for mitering. You want to make sure that you don't have a mitered seam in one of the corners. If it looks like that is going to happen, I adjust my starting place. When you are satisfied with the placement of the binding, make a mark indicating your stopping point. This is 12" from the starting point.

Mark 12" from Starting Point. This Is the Stopping Point

Now it is time to start sewing the binding to the quilt.Take a few stitches and then backstitch. Continue sewing until you are 1/4" from the corner. Some 1/4" presser feet have a mark that indicates 1/4" from the needle. I use the Prep Tool or a small ruler to mark that spot on my binding.

If using the Prep Tool, line the raised edge of the tool up with the edge of the quilt. The distance between that edge on the tool and the straight part of the tool is 1/4". Use a pencil to mark along the straight side. This will be your stopping point at the corner.

Line Edge of Prep Tool up with the Edge of the Quilt

If using a regular ruler, place the 1/4" line of the ruler up with the edge of the quilt. Mark along the ruler. This will be your stopping point at the corner.

Line Ruler up at 1/4" Line and Mark Stopping Point

Continue stitching until you get to the line. If your machine has a needle down setting, you want to use it when you get to the line. If you don't have that feature, when you get to the line manually put your needle down. Pivot the quilt so that you are aiming for the corner of the quilt (this is a 45 degree angle). In the photo below, I lifted up the binding a little bit so you can see the corner of my quilt and where I'm aiming my needle. Do not sew it that way. Just pivot the quilt. Find the corner and sew to the corner and off the quilt.

Line up Presser Foot So You're Sewing Toward the Corner of the Quilt

This is what it should look like.

Corner with Binding Sewn on a 45 Degree Angle

Bring binding strip up and fold it on that stitching line. The strip will be at a 45 degree angle.

The Binding Is Folded on a 45 Degree Angle

Now bring the binding strip down toward you. Line the resulting fold up with the top edge of the quilt. It should look like this.

Fold Binding toward You

Start at the very top and sew.

Follow these same steps for the remaining corners. Stop at the marked line 12" from the starting point and backstitch. Be sure you have at least 10" of binding left to finish it.

This is what the corners will look like when you turn the binding to the back.

If you need help finishing up the end of your binding, see my Blog Post about The Binding Tool. You'll have another perfect mitered seam and the binding will lie flat against your quilt.

If you have any questions, feel free to contact me.

Happy Quilting,

Carol

Binding Tool Instructions

We recently started carrying this fantastic tool for finishing the ends of your binding. The instructions are on the tool. If you remember to always have the Binding Tool face up and to use the marking line and point of the tool to trim away the excess, you will have perfect binding every time.

I have found that sometimes it is easier to understand something with step by step written instructions and illustrations. If you would like to watch a video that shows how to use it here is a link to that http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ex2PajesRvU too.

 Here is a mini quilt sample.

Quilt after It Has Been Quilted

As mentioned above the instructions are on the Binding Tool. Make sure when you are using it that the instructions are face up so you can read them easily.

Binding Tool Right Side Facing Up

Leave a 12" opening from where you start and finish your binding.

Sew Binding Leaving a 12" Opening

Make the tails at least 10" long on each end. The opening must be 12" but the tails can be longer. I start my seam with the tail 10". After I've stitched it down I don't worry too much about the end tail as long as it is at least 10" long.

Binding Tails Are at Least 10" Long on Each End

The short straight side of the Binding Tool always lines up with the end of the binding seam.

Align Short Straight Edge of Tool up with the end of Binding Seam

Line it up on the right side of your quilt. Bring the binding tail on top of the tool and mark with a pencil using the "Mark Here" line on the tool. If your line isn't perfectly straight don't worry. This is just a reference point.

Mark on Line on Right Hand Side of Quilt

Rotate the tool 180 degrees and do the same thing on the left side of the binding.

Mark on Line of Left Hand Side of Quilt

There are a few different variations of the Binding Tool. Some don't have any reference letters. Others have an L and an R. The current tool has the letters A and B. Whatever yours looks like, the process is exactly the same.

Open the right side of your binding strip. Make sure that the tool is face up so you can read the directions clearly. Line up the Mark Here line with the line you drew on the binding. (If your tool has the R & L you are lining up the R. If it has an A & B you're lining up the B with the line you drew.)

Line up the Line on the Binding Tool with the Drawn Line on the Binding

Trim away the ends of the fabric along the angled part and short little point at the end of the tool. It will look like this.

Right Binding Trimmed on a 45 Degree Angle 

Open the left side of your binding strip. Rotate the Binding Tool 180 degrees. This time line up the point of the tool (the L if you have that or the A if you have that) with the line you drew. It is very important that the tool is right side up and that you line it up at the point, NOT at the Mark Line like you did on the right side. 

Line up the Point of the Binding Tool on the Drawn Line on the Binding

Trim away the excess binding at the point and along the angled side. It should look like this.

Left Side of Binding Trimmed on a 45 Degree Angle

Now put the angled ends of the binding right sides together. Make sure that you don't twist the binding strip as you do this.

Binding Strips Right Sides Together

Sew a 1/4" seam. Press open.

Press Open

Re-fold the binding in half. The binding is exactly the size of your quilt. Use a 1/4" seam allowance to stitch it  down to your quilt.

Perfectly Flat Binding with a Nice Flat Mitered Seam

Perfect binding every time! All of the calculations are in the Binding Tool. It makes finishing  the binding a breeze.

Note: If your binding is too long, you probably lined up with the line on the tool on both sides. Remember to line the right side of your quilt up with the line on the tool and the left side up with the point on the tool.

If you have any questions, feel free to contact me. I'll be happy to help you.

Happy Quilting!
Carol