How to Sew Binding to a Quilt

If you need help piecing the binding, see my Blog Post about that. Here's a simple way to cut Long Bias Strips for Bias Binding.

After you have pieced your binding you are going to sew it to your quilt. What I am going to show here I learned from Libby Lehman.

Plan where you want to start and stop. Think about starting about 1/3 of the way from the top on the left hand side rather than at the bottom. When judges look for the start and stop spot on your binding they usually look at the bottom of the quilt.


I'm working with a mini quilt and would recommend making a small sample like this in various stages. That way you have a visual reminder of each step when you are ready to bind a project. After a while you won't refer to that sample as often. But in the beginning having that step by step sample will really help.

Measure 10" from the end of the binding strip. Pin it to the quilt at your starting place. You want to leave a 12" opening so keep that in mind when you choose where to place it. Make sure you have 12" between where this seam starts and where you will finish after sewing all the way around your quilt.

Leave a 10" Tail and Pin Binding to Quilt

I like to check placement of my binding. I wrap it around my quilt, leaving about an inch or so extra at each corner to allow for mitering. You want to make sure that you don't have a mitered seam in one of the corners. If it looks like that is going to happen, I adjust my starting place. When you are satisfied with the placement of the binding, make a mark indicating your stopping point. This is 12" from the starting point.

Mark 12" from Starting Point. This Is the Stopping Point

Now it is time to start sewing the binding to the quilt.Take a few stitches and then backstitch. Continue sewing until you are 1/4" from the corner. Some 1/4" presser feet have a mark that indicates 1/4" from the needle. I use the Prep Tool or a small ruler to mark that spot on my binding.

If using the Prep Tool, line the raised edge of the tool up with the edge of the quilt. The distance between that edge on the tool and the straight part of the tool is 1/4". Use a pencil to mark along the straight side. This will be your stopping point at the corner.

Line Edge of Prep Tool up with the Edge of the Quilt

If using a regular ruler, place the 1/4" line of the ruler up with the edge of the quilt. Mark along the ruler. This will be your stopping point at the corner.

Line Ruler up at 1/4" Line and Mark Stopping Point

Continue stitching until you get to the line. If your machine has a needle down setting, you want to use it when you get to the line. If you don't have that feature, when you get to the line manually put your needle down. Pivot the quilt so that you are aiming for the corner of the quilt (this is a 45 degree angle). In the photo below, I lifted up the binding a little bit so you can see the corner of my quilt and where I'm aiming my needle. Do not sew it that way. Just pivot the quilt. Find the corner and sew to the corner and off the quilt.

Line up Presser Foot So You're Sewing Toward the Corner of the Quilt

This is what it should look like.

Corner with Binding Sewn on a 45 Degree Angle

Bring binding strip up and fold it on that stitching line. The strip will be at a 45 degree angle.

The Binding Is Folded on a 45 Degree Angle

Now bring the binding strip down toward you. Line the resulting fold up with the top edge of the quilt. It should look like this.

Fold Binding toward You

Start at the very top and sew.

Follow these same steps for the remaining corners. Stop at the marked line 12" from the starting point and backstitch. Be sure you have at least 10" of binding left to finish it.

This is what the corners will look like when you turn the binding to the back.

If you need help finishing up the end of your binding, see my Blog Post about The Binding Tool. You'll have another perfect mitered seam and the binding will lie flat against your quilt.

If you have any questions, feel free to contact me.

Happy Quilting,

Carol