Japanese Embroidery

I had the pleasure of spending some time with Kathryn Elms of Azumi Japanese Embroidery Studio from Roswell, NM when we were at the Albuquerque Fiber Arts Fiesta. The first time I was in her booth I was amazed at the framed pieces I saw. I spoke with her husband about it and he walked me through piece by piece and explained the different levels.

The next morning before the show opened I took Alan by to see what I was so excited about. This time Kathryn was free and explained some more about the process. She had a Power Point presentation that showed the history of Japanese Embroidery and the process.

She studied at the Japanese Embroidery Center in Atlanta, GA. This is the main source of education everywhere in the world, except Japan. It was founded in 1989. There are ten levels of instruction and one needs to complete all ten and pass their final in order to teach Japanese Embroidery. 

There is a lot more to it than what we think of when we think of embroidery. Think of the most beautiful kimono you have ever seen and the embroidery on it. This is the kind of embroidery I'm referring to.We are used to grabbing some fabric, needles and either perle cotton, floss or silk ribbon and that’s it. These are the tools that are used in Japanese Embroidery.

Tools for Japanese Embroidery

The fabric used is silk as is the thread. The designs are hand drawn onto the fabric at the Japanese Embroidery Center or JEC. Along with each design you get what is called a cartoon and a color version. The cartoon is where you document your stitches, threads, etc. That way if you want to reproduce it or in Kathryn’s case teach it, she has a record of what she did. These are very intricate designs. This is the design that she was working on in her booth.

The design Kathryn was working on. You can also see the thread she uses

 The embroidery is all done in a frame, similar to a quilting frame. The fabric is pulled drum tight and the first session of the five day Phase 1 class focuses on the mechanics such as how to get the piece in the frame properly and how the tools are used.

Kathryn Elms at work. She is using her left hand to help manipulate the thread. You don't just pull it through the fabric the way you would for a RedWork design.

The thread is silk and has 12 threads in a strand. There are techniques such as couching where a single strand is used. This is doubled and then is hand twisted. I played with some of Kathryn’s thread scraps. It is so soft and smooth. Just touching the thread is a very zen-like experience.  

This is the Phase 1 project. It consists of five days of classes, studying for 6 hours a day. That gives you the basics but just like in quilting and stitching classes, you learn the technique. Most of the time we don’t complete the project in class and that is definitely the case here.

Phase 1 Class Project

There are over 40 different Japanese Embroidery stitches to learn. Each phase of instruction adds more stitches and techniques. When you get to Phase 10, you go to the Japanese Embroidery Center to work on this project. It is a week of instruction. This is your “final.” They make sure that you have mastered every one of the stitches. When you have completed this and passed, you can then become an instructor. This is Kathryn’s Phase 10 piece.

Phase 10 Project

Here is a close up of the same piece.

I am absolutely fascinated with this. There was something very peaceful about the process. Meditation is actually incorporated into the instruction. One of the things that Kathryn told me is that her master teacher told her over and over again when she was learning that you need to forgive yourself. I felt so encouraged by this. The philosophy is that your work is your history. You learn from each phase and each project. So forgive yourself if you aren't perfect. Learn from the experience and you’ll do better as you progress. This is the way I teach too and I think for most people it makes the learning process more fun.

When I am off the road, I would definitely like to explore this fiber art medium. If you'd like to know more about Kathryn visit her website at http://www.azumijapaneseembroidery.com/. If you’d like to learn more about Japanese Embroidery and the Japanese Embroidery Center here is their website http://www.japaneseembroidery.com/nuido/index.html . You can watch a video that explains a little bit about it on their website. I have just barely scratched the surface.

Happy Stitching,

Carol